Defining Aromatherapy



Aromatherapy is an incredible holistic and complementary therapy that is gaining recognition more and more each year. However, in the United States especially, the term has often been used as a meaningless buzz word to sell you smelly products. As a result aromatherapy is often misunderstood and very much undervalued by the general public. In this first lesson I will try to shed some light on what aromatherapy actually is.

Defining aromatherapy can be a difficult task in some ways. This is primarily because of the common misuse of the word. This misuse in addition to some of the elitist behaviors in the essential oil world itself has led to a gross lack of understanding by the common person. That is not to say all people who deal with essential oils are snobs by any means but I have witnessed personally certain people who work in the field behave snobbishly towards the public. Instead of making polite conversation and attempting to enlighten them they simply turn their nose up at the “obvious stupidity” and leave them flapping in the wind. When I witness this it annoys me to no end. If it has not been for the kindness of the woman mentioned in my last post I may have never had the same depth of understand I do now. She was kind to me and helpful in my quest for knowledge, despite my young age at the time.

I think that knowledge should be shared. Learning is vital to life and kindness is a virtue to cultivate. So here I will pass the kindness forward. I will teach you as best I can.

To begin with lets start with some history.

There is virtually no group of people in the history of humanity who has not at some time used plants for medicinal purposes. Aromatherapy is the use of aromatics or aromatic plants to support well being. Modern aromatherapy, as most people know it today, is quite young and has a rather short history. However, the history of medicinal and aromatic plants has an ancient lineage indeed.

Our primitive ancestors may have learned that smoke from a certain herb or berry dropped into the fire made them feel calm or opened there chest to breath easier. The Egyptians used resins, barks, oils and balsams for medicine, food preparation, spiritual activities and burials. It is thought that the Greeks learned much of there aromatic knowledge from the Egyptians and of course added there own experience to the history of it’s use. Hippocrates, considered to be the “father of western medicine” and a renowned Greek physician, is often quoted has having said, “the way to health is to have an aromatic bath and scented massage every day” And, of course, the Romans where well known for there decadent aromatic bathhouses.

In the middle ages aromatics where often burned in the streets and in homes to ward off infections and the bubonic plague. It is commonly suspected that tanners, perfume and glove makers where often immune to the plague because they where constantly surrounded by the aromatic essential oils of there trade.


During the eighteenth century essential oils where used extensively and much research was being done on their medicinal properties. However this was also a time that a growing specialization of medicine was occurring, which would eventually attempt to take medicine out of the hands of the common person. In the nineteenth century the family doctor was established.

In many ways the history of aromatherapy is the history of herbal medicine. Aromatherapy as we know it today, however, is a modern development based on how these aromatic plants where previously used. For this I would most like to thank Rene-Maurice Gattefosse, who coined the term in 1937 and the respective Gattefosse family.


Rene-Maurice Gattefosse



Rene-Maurice Gattefosse was the son of Louis Gattefosse, who owned and operated the Gattefosse perfume business, which still remains today. During Rene’s youth perfumes where still created with a mixture of natural essential oils, alcohol extracts and floral pomades. He, his father and brother worked closely together to define the compositions under which perfumes where prepared to set a standard of quality in strength and odor.

One of my most lovingly prized possessions, a gift from my husband, is a book called, “Formulary of Perfumes and Cosmetics” by R.M. Gattefosse. This first American edition published in 1959 being the English translation and revision of the French text published by the family in 1906, 1911 and 1920.

The original publication being based on the efforts for mentioned.

Due to this connection to essential oils for there perfumery business Gattefosse was already well connected with the herbal trade but it was not until the now famous laboratory explosion took place that aromatherapy, as we know it, came to be.

The story has been retold just a little different here and there but here is the quote from Rene’s book, “Aromatherapie” (1937)

“…External applications of small quantities of essential oils rapidly stops the spread of gangrenous sores. In my personal experience, after a laboratory explosion covered me with burning substances which I extinguished by rolling on a grassy lawn, my hands where covered with a rapidly changing gas gangrenous. Just one rinse with lavender oil stopped the gasification of the tissue. This treatment was followed by profuse sweating and healing began the next day. (July 1910)….”

Rene-Maurice Gattefosse had some 50 years experience with essential oils before he wrote this book. It is was this above mentioned incident that led him to a lifelong passion and commitment for uncovering the therapeutic benefits of essential oils. He is the forefather of “aromatherapy” and therefore aromatherapy is defined, most simply as “the therapeutic application or use of aromatic substances (essential oils).”

In addition to the Gattefosse family, Dr Jean Valnet was another individual who contributed greatly to the shape of modern aromatherapy. Dr. Valnet was trained as a traditional physician at the University of Lyon in 1945. By 1953 he began his research into essential oils. He focused mainly on the best methods of application as well as dosage levels needed for maximum benefit without risk of side effects. During World War II Dr Valnet was successful at treating the wounds of war by using essential oils as antiseptics. He additionally created a number of effective remedies for issues ranging from skin conditions, respiratory conditions, muscular aches and pain and so on, utilizing essential oils. In 1964 he published, “The practice of aromatherapy” and it has since grown to be considered a classical text on the subject.

Also, Marguerite Maury deserves special notice as she pioneered the dermal application of essential oils for both psychological and physiological benefits gained threw pathways of the skin. She also is notable for emphasizing the importance of the individual. Thus contributing to an evolution of aromatherapy.
In modern practice, aromatherapy is dynamic, diverse and often divided. This is perhaps a reflection of both the industries youth and seemingly endless growth.

In England, holistic or traditional aromatherapy was made popular threw standardization. There a standard aromatherapy program includes, basic pathology, basic counseling skills, basic nutrition, anatomy and physiology, Swedish massage and basic reflexology. Oh, and of course, Essential oil therapeutics. This is to a lesser degree similar to many of the more comprehensive massage therapy programs offered in the united states. However, aromatherapy as a standardized practice has yet to be established in the US.

The original introduction of aromatherapy into the US mainstream was threw the retail and gift industries rather than threw the profession. With this original introduction so came poor quality oils and synthetic fragrances being sold as “the best of the best”. It’s no wonder that the average consumer is confused about what aromatherapy is and if there is a difference between essential oils and synthetics.

In my next article I will address this issue of synthetics vs. essential oils further.

I hope you have enjoyed this first lesson and that the content has been enlightening. If you have any questions or comments feel free to leave them below and I will try to address them as either in return comment or in the next lessons as they follow.

A Special Announcement for the Aromatherapy enthusiast

I have decided to offer a free class on aromatherapy.

Topics will include things such as:

- What is Aromatherapy?
- Synthetic fragrance oils Vs Essential oils
- What are Essential oils?
- Chemistry concepts
- How smell effects the body
- How aromatherapy works when used for inhalation
- How dermal applications effect the body
- Blending basics
…and so much more

Before I get started I would first like to introduce myself a little bit and give some background on my experience with aromatherapy.

I first became interested in herbal therapies at a very young age. My grandparents raised me on a small three acre plot off the intracoastal waterway. We lived in a little, two bedroom cinderblock shack, we had a large garden, my grandfather fished and my grandmother made fishing nets and cared for our home. I was surrounded by nature and the wisdom of an older generation. The area we lived was primarily populated by people over the age of 50, give or take. As most of the residents in the area where retired and had grown children, I spent my days playing in the trees and along the water. I made friends with the elderly because there where rarely any children to play with. I also very much enjoyed listening to there stories of times gone by. The result was a deep love and respect for the land and the old ways of life.

During my early years in school the one topic that grabbed my interest most closely was that of mythology. I was fascinated by the far away lands and mysterious tales. I also had a keen interest in horses and read much about Arabian culture because of it’s relationship with then. I had been raised in a Christian home but around the age of ten or so I started having an interest in learning about other spiritual beliefs.

During the early 1990’s a social fascination with the topic of witchcraft came into play. Although it never overtook my spiritual beliefs about God, per say, it did impart a broader scope of cultural understanding to my life. Pagan cultures, especially, have continued to keep detailed records of herbalist lore and I took to the study of that very strongly.

By the age of twelve I was now more a part of the boarder world. While wandering downtown one day, exploring, I came across this little shop and was enormously enthralled by the strange products it held. It was filled with an intoxicating smell and the little brown bottles and herbalist books immediately drew me to adore every corner.

The shop owner, who I have now been acquainted with for well over fifteen year, was beautiful and wonderful. She had a mysterious air and a head full of long curly red hair. I asked her questions about her shop and she recommended to me my first book on aromatherapy, “The Aromatherapy Book” by Jeanne Rose. I still own that book to this day and it is still an irreplaceable asset in my ever broadening collection.

My first experiment was a concoction of a plain base cream mixed with rosemary oil. I was suffering with excessively oily hair due to the onset of puberty and made a hair mask with these basic ingredients. I slathered it on and soaked my hair in it for probably an hour. Once washed, my hair was beautiful and my oil problem greatly reduced like magic. I was hooked.

Over the years I continued to study and love essential oils, yet my formal education did not happen until many years later.

At the age of 25 I found myself a single mother in the process of a divorce. I was working for just better than minimum wage and made the decision to take a risk and enroll myself in college.

The subject that drew closeset to my heart was massage therapy. Over the course of my life not only had I continued to love essential oils and herbalist lore but I had also developed a healthy interest in medical science and alternative therapies. Massage seemed the way to go.

The coursework for the program was two years and in addition to the massage technique we also had intensive study in anatomy and physiology, kinesiology, pathology and of course spa and aromatherapy. My aromatherapy class with the highlight of my studies there and in retrospect, where aromatherapy degrees available in the US, I might have gone that route rather than massage.

I graduated and am still a licensed massage and bodywork therapist but my real passion resides in aromatherapy.

So how did I get from there to here? Well a couple years ago I got the idea to utilize my interest in cosmetics and chemistry to make products for my friends and family for Christmas. Being a family with three children money gets tight, especially during the holidays.

I began an extensive study into making balms and salves. I also did a fair deal of research on the FDA and it’s requirements for the distribution of home made cosmetics.

I made lip balms, body butters and candles for Christmas and afterwards I decided to open an online store to share some of my best creations.

The store did well but I was unprepared for the demand and after 6 months closed shop to get myself in better order and to prepare better for the demand. I actually have plans to reopen in January of 2012.

In the meanwhile I also though I might start work on a book of my own. An encyclopedia of sorts for aroma therapists. However, after many extensive hours of research and work the book was lost via a massive virus that got onto my computer. The result of this virus being that my entire operating system has to be wiped and reinstalled. I lost everything.

A close friend of mine has since commented over and over, “When are you going to get back to your book?” I told her recently that I would begin re writing it in January. It so happened that I had started this blog a few months back to just randomly vent and write about what interested me. If your already a reader of my blog then you’re aware that over the last month my obsessions have been the topic of soap and aromatherapy. It was a no brainier. Why not use this medium to write a class on aromatherapy? So here I am.

I have already begun the writing process and will begin posting my lessons soon. However, I also understand that we‘re all focused on the holiday season right now so I have decided to wait until after Christmas to officially begin.

Feel free to leave comments and Please subscribe if this interests you so you wont miss the upcoming topics.
　Thanks for readings and Happy Holidays!

Smells like Christmas - Part one - Fir and Frankincense

Christmas is a beautiful time and there is so much emotion related to the memories we take in every season. Be it the joy of giving, the love of the season or the hope of good will and humanity. Christmas is a special time indeed. Can you smell the fir tree? Can you smell the spices in that fresh baked pie? Candy canes, nuts, and other foods. Smell is amazing. The littlest whiff can bring us soaring with elation or crashing in despair all because of the powerful connection aroma has to the body.

Fir Needle essential oil is one of my personal favorites, especially for this time of year. It is wonderfully earthy, crisp and refreshing. It can conjure to the mind the heady scent of a fairytale forest just after the first winters snow. It is steam distilled from various types of leaves and twigs. Some commonly sold varieties are the European silver fir (Abies alba), the Siberian fir (Abies sibirica) or the Balsam fir (Abies balsamea) but they can be derived from any number of species of Abies, Larix, Picea and Pinus.

This oil can be inhaled for all sorts of respiratory ailments, bronchitis for example, and is a gentle tonic to the nervous system easing the mind and relaxing away aches. It tends to be uplifting of mood while at the same time promotes “grounding”, thus making you feel more comfortable and at home.

One thing I enjoy is a few drops into the well of my steam cleaner to freshen up the house. If you don’t have a steam cleaner you can always add a few drops to a spray bottle, shake and sprit’s above the carpets before vacuuming. If your inclined to make crafts like potpourris, wreaths or sachets it can be a wonderful addition to add an extra kick of holiday feel.

For some, live Christmas trees are considered too much hassle. I personally prefer a live tree. Yet, if you’re so inclined to go artificial, one way you can have the illusion of a real tree is to add a touch of this lovely oil to the branches. Voila! You have the beautiful smell without the needle shedding.

Of course there is simply burning the oil in a common diffuser but another method is to add a few drops to your steam humidifier to aid with winter sniffles. The scent aids with common cold and flu symptoms such as coughs, sore throat and sinus complaints. It is also said to be good for muscle aches.

Some have said to use Fir Needle oil in carrier oils and creams due to it’s analgesic properties. In some cases it has even been suggested that it helps with rheumatism: a generalized term for aches in the joints and connective tissue. While I’m sure there is validity to these claims, I would caution a novice. Fir oils, while considered generally safe, can be a skin irritant. With proper dilution Fir should be fine on the skin but be sure you know the math before using it topically. It is better to first be knowledgeable on skin preparations. You can learn from books or by talking with a qualified aroma therapist. In future articles I will address making tinctures and balms. In the meanwhile, however, I suggest the average person enjoy the benefits of this classic Christmas scent, threw your olfactory system.

Another smell connected to Christmas, for me, is that of frankincense. No I’m not Catholic but after hearing the Christmas story over the years it occurred to me to investigate. I mean gold, frankincense and myrrh? To someone unknowledgeable this collection of gifts seems rather strange. Like those picture games from when you where a kid. Which one of these things don’t belong? Right? From a modern perspective one might think less of frankincense and not appreciate it’s value. However, there was a time when the gift of gold was not as important or valuable as these precious plant derived resins.

In modern times frankincense is still harvested by hand, just as it was thousands of years ago. The harvester takes a special knife and delicately scrapes down small sections of the Bosellia carteri or frankincense trees bark. The first cut produces a milky solution, this is not harvested. About ten days will pass and the harvester returns and scrapes the tree again removing the milky resin and cutting deeper into the tree. This produces a more fragrant liquid but it is still not useable frankincense. After another ten days pass the tree is cut again, at this point the resin produced is a yellow brown color and very aromatic. This is the true frankincense resin often called “tears”. These “tears” of the Bosellia carteri are then steam distilled and the result is frankincense essential oil.

It was said that the fragrance of frankincense “floats on an invisible thread to heaven to attract Gods attention.” It has been revered by almost all western religions including Judaism and Christianity. Hindus and Buddhist have employed it for daily rituals and offerings. In Japan it has been employed in Shinto meditation and ritual. Ancient Egyptians used frankincense not only as a fragrance but also as a fumigant and for medicinal prescriptions. Egyptian women used frankincense to make their black kohl eye pigment, made most famous by Queen Cleopatra, who’s extravagant use of frankincense is legendary. During Roman times when cremation was widely practiced it was customary to burn it in the funeral pyre. It has been said, to gain favor with the god but it has additionally been suggested that it was probably to cover up the smell of burning flesh. Historically it was used in everything from embalming to beauty tinctures but is still most prized for it’s spiritual significance

In Chinese medicine frankincense is used in applications for tissue trauma. It may also have a future in modern western medicine. I have just recently read that frankincense has become the focus of studies related to cancer therapies. The idea being it may have the potential to aid in the destruction of cancer cells without harming the surrounding tissue. Scientists are still in the process of isolating the exact compound needed to do this. It has been speculated that if scientists can be successful at accomplishing this it may be a viable and much safer alternative to chemotherapy treatments. We’ll just have to wait and see how that goes.

All in all, Frankincense oil very much promotes skin health. Especially for those with ageing skin or with infections such as boils or acne. It is an antiseptic, has astringent properties and is anti inflammatory. I have made tinctures with frankincense, rose and other skin promoting essential oils for my grandmother and diluted them in apricot kernel oil. She uses this on her body including her face and sometimes her hair to promote health. For an acne related tincture it might be more advisable to use something like Jojoba. Everyone’s skin is different but that’s the beauty of customizing home made beauty products, you can adjust it exactly how you like.

Frankincense has also been used for pain relief, to increase immunity, to support the respiratory system via its expectorant action and to act as an anti depressant.

Being considered nontoxic, non-photosensitizing and non sensitizing in general, I am fairly confident that it is safe for most people, even those with allergies. However, there will always be an exception to every rule. I’ve met people who claim to be allergic to lavender and I’m skeptical of that, but everyone is different so who knows.

Tying this all back to Christmas, frankincense is simply lovely for reflection and meditation. During the hustle and bustle of the holiday and the general anxiety sometimes caused by the modern season an opportunity for this kind of relaxation and spiritual connectedness is a long sought blessing. Regardless of your belief or perception related to Christmas, "peace on earth and good will towards men" is the bottom line. With a little bit of this thread to heaven you can connect to the divinity inside you as well as the greater divinity outside. Even if world peace isn’t obtained the peace within your own heart may be all you need.


I hope you’ve enjoyed this little peak into a couple of my favorite Christmas inspired essential oils. They are both lovely but really a matter of personal preference for which you choose to scent your surroundings. In part two I will explore some holiday food inspired scents, such as cinnamon. 

Accepted Truths - The pH factor

　For the past few decades pH balanced has been a term widely used in order to sell skincare products. It is just one example of many “accepted truths” we run across everyday. The media using this term to interject scientific sounding mumbo jumbo into the conversation to make you as a consumer feel comfortable about your selections in products. The problem is that few people actually understand what the term pH balanced means. Furthermore, pH balanced for what? 

First lets have a little science lesson. In chemistry, pH is how someone measures the acidity or alkaline nature of an aqueous solution. An aqueous solution basically means something that is water soluble or can be diluted. De-ionized or “pure” water is said to be a neutral, with a pH of 7.0 at 25C or 77F. Solutions with a pH of less than 7 are said to be acidic. Solutions with a pH greater than 7 are alkaline, commonly referred to as basic or a base.

 Low or acidic pH indicated a high concentration of hydrogen ions or hydronium ions in water. Hydronium ions are the combination of hydrogen and water.

Here are some common examples of acids.

Hydrochloric- HCl Muriatic Acid - common name; Toilet bowl cleaners, masonry cleaners, gastric juice
Carbonic- H₂CO₃ Carbonated water; club soda - soft drinks, blood buffer
Sulfuric
Acetic- HC₂H₃O₂ Vinegar; cooking, salads
Nitric- HNO₃ Remove warts, causes yellow stains on skin
Phosphoric- H₃PO₄ Acidify soft drinks, in ATP and DNA
Citric- H₃C₆H₈O₆ Fruit juices
Lactic- HC₃H₅O₃ Builds up in muscles during exercise

A high or alkaline (base) pH indicated a low concentration of hydrogen ions. A base is any compound that gives up hydroxide ions when dissolved in water.

Here are some examples of things that are base or alkaline

Sodium Hydroxide NaOH Lye, Caustic); make soap and textiles, oven cleaner, Drano, Liquid Plumber
Potassium Hydroxide KOH Lye, Caustic); make soap and textiles
Magnesium Hydroxide Mg(OH)₂ Milk of magnesia; laxative and antacid
Calcium Hydroxide Ca(OH)₂ Lime Water; astringent -causes contraction of skin pores
Ammonium Hydroxide NH₄OH Ammonia in water; window cleaner, other cleaning solutions
Ammonia NH₃ Gas; inhalant to revive an unconscious person, anhydrous or liquid ammonia is injected into soil as a fertilizer
Sodium Carbonate Na₂CO₃ Soda Ash; Detergents
Sodium Phosphate Na₃PO₄ Sodium triphosphate;
Detergents

It is quite possible to write a pretty heavy book on the additional information related to the definition of acids and bases. I have spent much time agonizing over a simple way to explain but for the sake of this article we’re just going to leave the definitions there and move on.

When dealing with an acid, a base and a neutral there are a number of things that happen. Primarily you have dilution. If you take a base and mix water it gives up a part of itself to the water to cause it to become a weaker substance. If you take an acid the water either takes from the acid or binds to the acid also causing a dilution effect. Based on my understanding, the effects of acids to acids and bases to bases is that the dilution process relates similarly to water in that the stronger acid would become dilute by a weaker causing it to meet between the two. For example an acid with a ph of 4.5 mixed with an acid of 5.5 would find an equilibrium of 5 between the two. Same for a base. A base of 10 would be weakened by a base of 8 making 9.

As was stated earlier the pH factor relates only to a water soluble substance. We’ve all heard the saying, “oil and water don’t mix” so it should be made clear that non water soluble agents do not apply where the pH factor is concerned.

Ok, with that little chemistry lesson out of the way, lets begin. The cosmetic industry often tells us that soap is bad for your skin because it is too alkaline in nature. This is based on the concept that our bodies have something called the “acid mantel”. The acid mantel is a thin layer or film on the skin that is formed by sebum (oil) and sweat. This layer is said to protect against the elements, such as wind and pollution. It also said that it inhibits the growth of harmful bacteria and fungi on the skin. Or so I’m told. The cosmetic industry would have you believe that by using alkaline soap you are destroying this “acid mantel” thereby subjecting yourself to the above mentioned: wind, pollution, bacteria and fungi. It’s enough to make you scared to death, right?

I have actually read in certain articles that a pH of 7 is enough to seriously impede this most “precious“, natural barrier. Here’s the problem. Do you remember our science lesson? Water is a pH of 7. According to some of the information out there, water will damage your skin. Of course they don’t say water because anyone would know that’s garbage. They say, “a pH of 7” because who knows what that means? Well now, you do.

Additionally in regard to the acid mantel there is no consistent pH range given for this “most important barrier”. I have read 4 to 5.5, I have read 4.5 to 5.5, I have read 4.5 to 6. I have also read it is variable to person to person, men being more acidic than women and being variations to these levels from one part of the body to the next.

I say this with a touch of tongue and cheek but here is my theory why. The acid mantel is the sweat and oil on your body. It is not some precious substance on your skin that will be forever lost if you wash yourself with soap. It is what is secreted from your pores and the glands beneath your skin, sweat and sebum. It is the very thing most people are trying to wash off in the first place. Hello?!??!?

The cosmetic industry tells you in order for your skin to be healthy you must clean your skin with a product that has an acidic pH of about 5.5, give or take, because that most closely matches the acidity of the “acid mantel”. Then those same companies turn around and sell you deodorant to stop you from sweating in your armpits.

The acid mantel in a healthy individual replenishes itself on it’s own naturally; as soon as you step out of the shower. No matter what brand of soap you just used, water alone will strip this film on your skin. The idea that a cleanser “pH balanced” for skin is necessary is a way to scare you into buying, “a cleanser pH balanced for skin”

Oh but it gets better. Lets discuss “tear free” products. You’ve all heard the ad’s, “Gentle as pure water to your babies eyes”. Do you know why that is? Because it’s once again “pH balanced” - for your eyes. Your eyes have a pH of about 7.4 (sources vary) but for a product to call itself tear free is has to be “pH balanced” to approximately 7 to qualify. So this same industry that sells you on the idea that your cleanser needs to be 5.5 to be pH balanced for your skin, sells you a product with a pH of 7 to wash your baby in because it‘s “tear free“.

The acid mantel aside, your body as a whole typically stays at a pH of approximately 7 give or take. Your skin is an amazing organ designed to adapt to the conditions outside of you and can handle fairly well a pH ranging both from the acidic rang to the alkaline (or base) range. If you look back at some of the things listed in both the acidic and base examples above you will see that both sides of the equation have things we come in contact with everyday and never give a second though to if it might “damage” our skin. We also can clearly see that some of the items on either side of the list are caustic and would obviously be damaging to us. The difference has more to do with how far either side deviates from the neutral rather that which side of the neutral they’re on.

Now the argument against soap has been that it can have a pH range from 9 to 11. That very well may have some truth to it but there is never an explanation beyond this given. Once again expecting the consumer to simply trust that this is “bad” and “true”. Soap is made by taking lye and mixing it with fat. Fat in it’s own right is not an aqueous substance but when combined with lye a chemical reaction happens breaking the fat down into soap, glycerin and water. Lye generally speaking has a pH of 13. On it’s own it is extremely caustic. The reaction it has with fats however neutralizes it reducing the pH. This does not happen immediately. Home made soap typically must age for several weeks so that the lye can completely absorb into the fat. The age of soap alone can work as a factor in regards to how alkaline it may be. Also the water and glycerin content play a role in how alkaline it is as well. The amount of fat and the quality the fat used in soap making can significantly change the pH.

People who make all natural soap typically strive to maintain the glycerin content in there soaps because glycerin is very nourishing to the skin. Glycerin is a humectant and draws moisture from the atmosphere towards itself. If you’ve ever used a lotion with a high glycerin content you can almost feel this happening from the moment you put it on. In a large majority of cases the cosmetic industry removes the glycerin content from soap. They do this so that they can use the glycerin in lotions. At this moment I am only making an assumption but I don’t think it takes rocket science to put this idea together. It would seem, the cosmetic industry makes an inferior product intentionally by removing the most nourishing element from soap and then takes that same wonderful substance and turns around to sell it back to you in another product designed to help repair the damage caused.

Instead of accepting the “accepted truths“, we as consumers need to start seeking real truth. I hope this article has been enjoyable and enlightening and will encourage you to keep learning. Don’t just be a complacent consumer, be a knowledgeable one.
　

　

The Fear of Soap

For the average person cleaning yourself is as natural as eating or sleeping. It’s part of the basic routine we all go threw everyday. So why then does the idea of soap cause such anxiety? You may think I’m strange for saying this. By soap, however, I don’t mean the same as you might think. I don’t mean the petrochemical laden detergents called soap. I mean good old fashioned lye soap, real soap, actual soap.


Over the last couple of years I have been studying soap, lotions and various “personal care” products. Initially, I just wanted to make some Christmas gifts for friends and family. I thought I could save myself a few bucks and still make something enjoyable for people to have and use. The more I read and learned the more fascinated I became with the idea of better products for your body and the more upset I became with the toiletry and cosmetics industry in general.


That being said, it still doesn’t exactly explain what I mean by the fear of soap, So I’ll start with a little history.


What is soap?


The first soap was most likely discovered accidentally when some fats from an animal cooking fell into the ash of a fire. This on the most fundamental level makes “soap”. The refined version, the artisan interpretation, goes a little more like this: lye (either sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide) and fats (either animal or plant based). Castile Soap, being an example of natural soap creation.


Castile Soap, named for the region of Spain where it was made most famous is traditionally a combination of lye and plant oils. Typically olive or a combination of olive and laurel, but the more modern variations include fats ranging from coconut oil to hemp oil and various combinations there of.


On the most basic level this sounds simple and good; natural. So why then the fear or soap?


You may think you don’t fear soap. What’s more you may believe you use soap everyday, but the reality is far different. What modern society has accepted as “soap” is not soap at all but detergent. The only most basic similarity between the two are that they are surfactants, but on many other levels they are far different.


If your wondering, Surfactants are compounds that lower the surface tension of a liquid, the interfacial tension between two liquids, or that between a liquid and a solid. For this case we are referring to a substance that, when dissolved in water, gives a product the ability to remove dirt or grease from surfaces.


Detergent, unlike soap, is a varied cocktail of chemicals which mimic soap. Some of the ingredients are created with similar byproducts but then mixed with other agents. In there own right, I think detergents where created with good intentions in mind. Being more acidic in nature they seemed to function more efficiently for cleaning surfaces. They appear to not leave residue and as such where considered more ideal for clothes washing as well. They are versatile much like soap, but they are not soap.


For an understanding of what led to the widespread usage of detergents we should take a glance back in time. During the 1800’s respectively, patents where being registered for various detergent chemicals. Although the history of detergents is not so veiled as the origin of soap making, there is still some considerable debate on the origins of the detergent industry, as we know it. It has been suggested that during the time of World War I detergents where being developed in answer to the interest of utilizing fat for productions other than soap. By World War II the availability of fat was in decline and as a result detergents rapidly gained strength in the market. From a manufacturing standpoint these chemical variations where more cost effective and as such continued to gain popularity.


Over the years, companies have grown enormously and threw the course of advertising have very much influenced an individuals understanding of the most basic of concepts. They’ve additionally capitalized on complacency. Basically we have been told for decades, “Soap is bad” and most believed it.
In modern times, information has become more widely available to the masses and some people have started questioning this. Ironically we now have companies attempting to pass off detergents as “soap”. I would assume, with the hopes that the average consumer would just take there word for it and in many cases they do.


You may ask yourself, what’s wrong with this?


Well aside from the obvious personal enslavement that comes from a place of complacency and ignorance, detergents are recognized to be toxic to the environment and organic life. We are organic life and we are a part of our environment.


Now don’t get me wrong, I’m not some preachy green freak. I eat meat and I’m ok with that. I don’t have a recycling bin, though I probably should. I’m your average person, just like you. I was for the longest time mindlessly consuming myself. However, I am on a personal mission to change that.


I had a fear of soap. When I first decided to start making natural products for myself I was simply looking for a cheaper, better, solution. I wasn’t looking to make soap or learn about soap. I was actually learning how to make lip balms and body butters. Natural soap, interestingly enough, goes hand and hand with these because they are similarly made with fats.


At first I was scared of the idea of lye. With good reasons because lye in its own right is caustic. However, it doesn’t take long to learn that when lye emulsifies with fats you no longer have lye. You have soap. Soap properly made is not only safe and natural but in the hands of a skilled soap maker can be beautiful and nourishing to your skin. Once I became aware of this simple process I was captivated but I was still afraid of soap.


We have been told soap is bad for your skin. Ask anyone about washing your face with “soap” and they balk at the idea. There are two reasons for this: brainwashing and misinformation. Brainwashing by businesses trying to sell you a million different products. Misinformation by those same companies trying to confuse you about what “soap” really is. Furthermore, confusing generations about what “clean”, “natural” and “healthy” is. The result? Trusting in the corporations instead of your own self education. I was afraid to try real soap because I was made fearful by misinformation.


If you want to get down to it, humans initially washed themselves with water and moisturized with oils. Around 2000BC give or take soap was mentioned for the use of cleaning the body but throughout history bathing varied as common practice. In 1300AD Castile soap was invented, so for the next 500 years give or take, if a person used soap to bathe then it was a natural lye and fat based soap. Detergents have only been in regular use for body cleaning since the 1940’s. The math is simple.


Do you have a fear of soap?












(soap picture from - T and J Soaps - http://www.etsy.com/shop/TandJsoaps )