Accepted Truths - The pH factor

　For the past few decades pH balanced has been a term widely used in order to sell skincare products. It is just one example of many “accepted truths” we run across everyday. The media using this term to interject scientific sounding mumbo jumbo into the conversation to make you as a consumer feel comfortable about your selections in products. The problem is that few people actually understand what the term pH balanced means. Furthermore, pH balanced for what? 

First lets have a little science lesson. In chemistry, pH is how someone measures the acidity or alkaline nature of an aqueous solution. An aqueous solution basically means something that is water soluble or can be diluted. De-ionized or “pure” water is said to be a neutral, with a pH of 7.0 at 25C or 77F. Solutions with a pH of less than 7 are said to be acidic. Solutions with a pH greater than 7 are alkaline, commonly referred to as basic or a base.

 Low or acidic pH indicated a high concentration of hydrogen ions or hydronium ions in water. Hydronium ions are the combination of hydrogen and water.

Here are some common examples of acids.

Hydrochloric- HCl Muriatic Acid - common name; Toilet bowl cleaners, masonry cleaners, gastric juice
Carbonic- H₂CO₃ Carbonated water; club soda - soft drinks, blood buffer
Sulfuric
Acetic- HC₂H₃O₂ Vinegar; cooking, salads
Nitric- HNO₃ Remove warts, causes yellow stains on skin
Phosphoric- H₃PO₄ Acidify soft drinks, in ATP and DNA
Citric- H₃C₆H₈O₆ Fruit juices
Lactic- HC₃H₅O₃ Builds up in muscles during exercise

A high or alkaline (base) pH indicated a low concentration of hydrogen ions. A base is any compound that gives up hydroxide ions when dissolved in water.

Here are some examples of things that are base or alkaline

Sodium Hydroxide NaOH Lye, Caustic); make soap and textiles, oven cleaner, Drano, Liquid Plumber
Potassium Hydroxide KOH Lye, Caustic); make soap and textiles
Magnesium Hydroxide Mg(OH)₂ Milk of magnesia; laxative and antacid
Calcium Hydroxide Ca(OH)₂ Lime Water; astringent -causes contraction of skin pores
Ammonium Hydroxide NH₄OH Ammonia in water; window cleaner, other cleaning solutions
Ammonia NH₃ Gas; inhalant to revive an unconscious person, anhydrous or liquid ammonia is injected into soil as a fertilizer
Sodium Carbonate Na₂CO₃ Soda Ash; Detergents
Sodium Phosphate Na₃PO₄ Sodium triphosphate;
Detergents

It is quite possible to write a pretty heavy book on the additional information related to the definition of acids and bases. I have spent much time agonizing over a simple way to explain but for the sake of this article we’re just going to leave the definitions there and move on.

When dealing with an acid, a base and a neutral there are a number of things that happen. Primarily you have dilution. If you take a base and mix water it gives up a part of itself to the water to cause it to become a weaker substance. If you take an acid the water either takes from the acid or binds to the acid also causing a dilution effect. Based on my understanding, the effects of acids to acids and bases to bases is that the dilution process relates similarly to water in that the stronger acid would become dilute by a weaker causing it to meet between the two. For example an acid with a ph of 4.5 mixed with an acid of 5.5 would find an equilibrium of 5 between the two. Same for a base. A base of 10 would be weakened by a base of 8 making 9.

As was stated earlier the pH factor relates only to a water soluble substance. We’ve all heard the saying, “oil and water don’t mix” so it should be made clear that non water soluble agents do not apply where the pH factor is concerned.

Ok, with that little chemistry lesson out of the way, lets begin. The cosmetic industry often tells us that soap is bad for your skin because it is too alkaline in nature. This is based on the concept that our bodies have something called the “acid mantel”. The acid mantel is a thin layer or film on the skin that is formed by sebum (oil) and sweat. This layer is said to protect against the elements, such as wind and pollution. It also said that it inhibits the growth of harmful bacteria and fungi on the skin. Or so I’m told. The cosmetic industry would have you believe that by using alkaline soap you are destroying this “acid mantel” thereby subjecting yourself to the above mentioned: wind, pollution, bacteria and fungi. It’s enough to make you scared to death, right?

I have actually read in certain articles that a pH of 7 is enough to seriously impede this most “precious“, natural barrier. Here’s the problem. Do you remember our science lesson? Water is a pH of 7. According to some of the information out there, water will damage your skin. Of course they don’t say water because anyone would know that’s garbage. They say, “a pH of 7” because who knows what that means? Well now, you do.

Additionally in regard to the acid mantel there is no consistent pH range given for this “most important barrier”. I have read 4 to 5.5, I have read 4.5 to 5.5, I have read 4.5 to 6. I have also read it is variable to person to person, men being more acidic than women and being variations to these levels from one part of the body to the next.

I say this with a touch of tongue and cheek but here is my theory why. The acid mantel is the sweat and oil on your body. It is not some precious substance on your skin that will be forever lost if you wash yourself with soap. It is what is secreted from your pores and the glands beneath your skin, sweat and sebum. It is the very thing most people are trying to wash off in the first place. Hello?!??!?

The cosmetic industry tells you in order for your skin to be healthy you must clean your skin with a product that has an acidic pH of about 5.5, give or take, because that most closely matches the acidity of the “acid mantel”. Then those same companies turn around and sell you deodorant to stop you from sweating in your armpits.

The acid mantel in a healthy individual replenishes itself on it’s own naturally; as soon as you step out of the shower. No matter what brand of soap you just used, water alone will strip this film on your skin. The idea that a cleanser “pH balanced” for skin is necessary is a way to scare you into buying, “a cleanser pH balanced for skin”

Oh but it gets better. Lets discuss “tear free” products. You’ve all heard the ad’s, “Gentle as pure water to your babies eyes”. Do you know why that is? Because it’s once again “pH balanced” - for your eyes. Your eyes have a pH of about 7.4 (sources vary) but for a product to call itself tear free is has to be “pH balanced” to approximately 7 to qualify. So this same industry that sells you on the idea that your cleanser needs to be 5.5 to be pH balanced for your skin, sells you a product with a pH of 7 to wash your baby in because it‘s “tear free“.

The acid mantel aside, your body as a whole typically stays at a pH of approximately 7 give or take. Your skin is an amazing organ designed to adapt to the conditions outside of you and can handle fairly well a pH ranging both from the acidic rang to the alkaline (or base) range. If you look back at some of the things listed in both the acidic and base examples above you will see that both sides of the equation have things we come in contact with everyday and never give a second though to if it might “damage” our skin. We also can clearly see that some of the items on either side of the list are caustic and would obviously be damaging to us. The difference has more to do with how far either side deviates from the neutral rather that which side of the neutral they’re on.

Now the argument against soap has been that it can have a pH range from 9 to 11. That very well may have some truth to it but there is never an explanation beyond this given. Once again expecting the consumer to simply trust that this is “bad” and “true”. Soap is made by taking lye and mixing it with fat. Fat in it’s own right is not an aqueous substance but when combined with lye a chemical reaction happens breaking the fat down into soap, glycerin and water. Lye generally speaking has a pH of 13. On it’s own it is extremely caustic. The reaction it has with fats however neutralizes it reducing the pH. This does not happen immediately. Home made soap typically must age for several weeks so that the lye can completely absorb into the fat. The age of soap alone can work as a factor in regards to how alkaline it may be. Also the water and glycerin content play a role in how alkaline it is as well. The amount of fat and the quality the fat used in soap making can significantly change the pH.

People who make all natural soap typically strive to maintain the glycerin content in there soaps because glycerin is very nourishing to the skin. Glycerin is a humectant and draws moisture from the atmosphere towards itself. If you’ve ever used a lotion with a high glycerin content you can almost feel this happening from the moment you put it on. In a large majority of cases the cosmetic industry removes the glycerin content from soap. They do this so that they can use the glycerin in lotions. At this moment I am only making an assumption but I don’t think it takes rocket science to put this idea together. It would seem, the cosmetic industry makes an inferior product intentionally by removing the most nourishing element from soap and then takes that same wonderful substance and turns around to sell it back to you in another product designed to help repair the damage caused.

Instead of accepting the “accepted truths“, we as consumers need to start seeking real truth. I hope this article has been enjoyable and enlightening and will encourage you to keep learning. Don’t just be a complacent consumer, be a knowledgeable one.